I was happy to have a chance to preview Rosarine at Esxence 2023 last March and then learn more about it at the May live presentation hosted by Pissara Umevajami, the brilliant and kind owner and perfumer of Parfums Dusita.
Rosarine is an assertive, sophisticated, and poetic interpretation of the rose theme. Pissara wanted to celebrate this “queen of roses” by showcasing its multiple facets: green, spicy, fruity, earthy. The fragrance is also her way of remembering the first day she visited the Parc de Bagatelle in Paris, where she admired many splendid roses and decided, right then, to become a perfumer.
Rosarine takes the spot as my personal Dusita favorite alongside Moonlight in Chiangmai and Le Sillage Blanc. It satisfies my love for rose-centric fragrances and exemplifies many aspects I appreciate in a fragrance: regal elegance, a synthesis of contrasting yet complementary notes, natural magnetism, and a touch of mystery.
On my skin, Rosarine has a woody, rose-forward character with glimpses of tart raspberry and smoked woods. The lychee instantly came through when I first tried it on a paper blotter, but it isn’t as present on skin. Nevertheless, I am not sure whether the fruity notes can be easily discerned, and what I perceive as raspberry may also include lychee. The fruity hues are crisp and almost green to begin with but, over time, sweeten to convey a compote-like layer that envelopes the rose and balances the incense and smoky aroma.
In Rosarine, the patchouli note remains classy and clean and seems to truly enhance the composition’s elegance and radiant beauty. The patchouli accord that was sent as part of the kit to accompany the May live presentation has distinctly earthy qualities with cocoa, coffee, and warm spice nuances, but I don’t detect these gourmand aspects as much in the overall composition.
Dusita’s creations are inspired by the poems composed by Montri Umavijani, Pissara’s late father. According to the brand’s philosophy, perfumes and poetry elevate both human senses and mind, while invigorating the spirits toward blissful happiness.
This is Montri’s poem that was chosen to complement Rosarine:
On my lips “leaving”
is love.
a thousandsfold
from the outworn heart.
-Montri Umavijani
The notes are described as they appear on the Dusita website:
In the opening,
a Cinnamon-sprinkled Bulgarian Rose is surrounded by delightful notes of just-ripened Raspberry,
thirst-quenching Lychee
and nectarous Bergamot.
In the heart,
the iconic May Rose from Grasse blooms,
embellished by soulful Orris Butter,
intense Jasmine Sambac,
smoky Amyris Wood, mystical Incense,
musky Ambrette and cool Coriander.
In the base,
an exclusive Gourmand
Patchouli Accord reigns:
earthy, chocolatey and a little spicy,
it includes Patchouli, Vetiver, Sandalwood,
Vanilla, Cocoa and Benzoin.
I thank the lovely Pissara and her team for inviting me to Rosarine’s live presentation and for the PR kit (the 15 ml bottle, artwork, and accord set were gifted).
Pictures are my own.
