Autumn Scent Note: Mushroom

It’s been raining a bit this October, so I thought I’d highlight a scent note that nicely matches the feeling of autumnal dampness: mushroom.

The first time I smelled mushroom in perfume was 10 years ago after I tried Forbidden by House of Matriarch, a house based in the United States founded by artisan perfumer Christi Meschell. The soil-rich, slightly musty aroma of mushroom is unmistakable here, intertwining with an untamed tuberose. This fragrance established somewhat of a standard of what this note should smell like in a fragrance, allowing me to discover more creations over the years.

I naturally gravitate toward mushroom because of its earthy and slightly musty presence (sensations that can be imparted by a substance named geosmin). I love how naturally mushroom pairs with patchouli and oakmoss, two of my favorite ingredients in perfumery, and I appreciate how its character can vary depending on fragrance style.

Here are a few of my favorite perfumes that showcase this unique note:

In Goat by Wolf Brothers, the wild mushrooms and spicy truffles are as potent as the animal presence. This fragrance could initially be perceived as difficult (you can smell fur, pelt, and a unique goat’s milk accord I hadn’t experienced before!). However, as these initial notes progressively soften and subside, my skin naturally enhances lush and wearable leather, vetiver, and aged patchouli.

Perfumer: Laurent Marrone

In Morel Map by Clue Perfumery, the mushroom is earthy and gentle, providing a grounding background for forest-green notes (I think of the vibrant lymph from crushed fleshy leaves), woody orris, patchouli, oakmoss, and woods.

Perfumer: Laura Oberwetter

The umami-rich mushroom in Prism Head by Sarah Baker Perfumes is more prominent in the opening and on a blotter, fading more into the background as the fragrance evolves. On my skin, I detect “damp concrete” and patchouli notes prominently and imagine the scent of petrichor lifting off the shiny pavement of a countryside road before the rain starts to fall (wafts of smoke and mushroom blowing in the air).

Perfumer: Miguel Matos

If you haven’t tried any of these fragrances, I highly recommend seeking them out.

The sky’s the limit with this note, and I know I have much more to try.

Happy October and let me know if you have any favorite fragrances with a mushroom note.