In my first article about Esxence 2023, I talked about navigating the event and the fragrances from brands I hadn’t tried before. In this feature, I focus on new releases from brands I already knew and loved. I also highlight the exhibition organized by L’Osmothèque and mention the houses I missed and wished I had tried.
Angela Ciampagna
I had previously sampled most fragrances from Angela’s Hatria collection, quickly becoming fond of Rosarium, an intimate and transportive blend of violets, honey, and incense. I was pleased to meet Angela in person and try the opulent Vis and Levis from the Virtus collection. The Label line was also new to me, so this was a good opportunity to sample both fragrances and waxes. Angela’s sensitivity and passion for artisanal perfumery comes through every time she describes her fragrances. Sipping licorice tea while sniffing the licorice-forward Liquo was a highlight of my first afternoon at Esxence.
Catherine Omai
Contagious, a bold and attractive blend with hefty doses of oud and oakmoss is Catherine Omai’s first creation and a tribute to her native land, Nigeria. I tried it in 2019, so I was looking forward to meeting Catherine and discovering her latest releases too. Contagious Rose includes four precious roses (Bourbon, Turkish, Bulgarian, and Rose de Mai) and is both complex and refreshing on the skin. Contagious Green is a different take on vetiver, which often comes across as smoky and dry when featured as the main player in a fragrance. This interpretation feels lush and rich with the addition of vanilla and woods. Speaking with Catherine was a true pleasure!
Coquillete
Coquillete’s booth was always busy, but I finally met founder and perfumer, Rosa Vaia, on the last day of the fair. We had corresponded when I reviewed her evocative creation, Vesevius, and I was looking forward to talking with her in person and trying the newest fragrances. I admire Rosa’s energy, kindness, concepts, and stance in the fragrance industry. She welcomed us warmly and enthusiastically talked about her fragrances even after long four days of fair. Cuiris and Tubexotic are her latest fragrant releases. The first is a beautiful leathery violet and what I perceive as a nod to classics like Balmain Jolie Madame. Tubexotic is a sunny tuberose that Rosa defined as a youthful and playful interpretation of the flower. I was also thrilled to finally try Reginette, a lively blend of orange blossom and peach with undertones of oud and vetiver, and Joal, a mouthwatering rendering of dark chocolate. Coquillette’s booth featured fascinating artwork by London artist, Endless, and was my favorite of the event.
Francesca Bianchi
This was the perfect opportunity to try Francesca’s three latest releases, Libertine Neroli, Unspoken Musk, and Byzantine Amber. At first sniff on paper, Byzantine Amber was the one that resonated with me the most. Unluckily, I couldn’t try any of the three on skin, so I look forward to getting my hands on samples soon. This visit also made me realize that Angel’s Dust works very well on me, and I need to add it to my Francesca Bianchi collection!
Frassaï
This house didn’t have a booth this year, but I was thrilled to hear that founder and owner, Natalia Outeda, would be attending. Although we had never met in person before, talking with Natalia felt like seeing an old friend again! We talked about life in Italy and her 2022 launch, Victoria, a unique take on tuberose and oud. I also sniffed the newly released hair perfumes available in two scents, Rosa Sacra and El Descanso (the photos below were kindly provided by Natalia). Light, refreshing, and moisturizing, the fragrances are perfect for reviving dull hair after a day at the beach and can also be applied on the skin.
Masque Milano
The four perfumers who created Love Kills (Caroline Dumur), Mandala (Christian Carbonnel), Tango (Cécile Zarokian), and Russian Tea (Julien Rasquinet) were asked to reformulate their creations by adding oud, which seemed to nicely enhance the rose in Love Kills and the spice medley in Mandala the most. I prefer Tango and Russian Tea in the original versions. I also finally sampled the last two fragrances of the Opera collection, White Whale and Sleight of Fern, the latter being my favorite of the two.
Nobile 1942
I was excited to try Petali e Spade, an Antonio Alessandria creation for the brand that was launched in 2022. I tested it on skin among other fragrances that same day, but still feel like I need to try it again to fully understand it. I also tried Anti Malocchio, the house’s new release. This is a playful tribute to the iconic “cornetto”, the chili pepper known to attract good luck in Naples, and stars a sugared almond heart introduced by a prominent chili pepper opening.
Parfums de Nicolaï
I was instinctively drawn to the new release, Caravanserail, which I purchased blindly about a month before Esxence. I was thrilled with my choice, but I was also curious to try the other new fragrance, Bois Bélize, an invigorating fragrance that brings together citruses, spices, and woods. I will always have a soft spot for the line’s elegant and effortless fragrant style and enjoy its deeper and lighter offerings alike.
Parfums Dusita
I enjoyed meeting brand founder and perfumer, Pissara Umavijani, after seeing her a few times at live events. Her kindness and generosity with writers, content creators, and fragrance lovers is well known, and I truly appreciated her warm welcome at the booth. I tried some of the latest releases I had missed, including Rhapsodie Noir, a coffee-laced, rhum-dipped fougère that was an instant love for me. Pissara also introduced us to her new creation, Rosarine, a sensual rose-centric scent with fruity and piquant inflections. I will be talking more about it soon, so hang tight for now.
Perris Monte Carlo
Stopping by the Perris booth gave us an opportunity to try Neroli and Vetiver Java, the two new fragrances from the brand I still hadn’t tried. The elegance of this house is indisputable, and these two creations are no exception. Their latest release is Vanille de Tahiti Extrait de Parfum, which shares notes with the Eau de Parfum version with the addition of magnolia absolute. The brand also mentioned a new e-boutique in the USA, which was officially opened a few days ago.
Versatile Paris
As a fan of the house’s rich oil extraits enclosed in the cutest small bottles – Culot Thé and Accrodisiaque are my personal favorites – I was interested in trying the new release, which was kindly presented by founder and CEO, Coralie Frébourg. With notes of fig, anise, sea, and orange blossom, Sea, Sud & Sun transported me to the seashore of a Mediterranean village.
Launch party: Le Jardin Retrouvé Osmanthe Liu Yuan
Le Jardin Retrouvé is a house I have been fond of since it was revived in 2017. I admire their concept (the fragrances are dedicated to different gardens worldwide) and how they preserve classic French elegance. After trying their entire sample set, I quickly fell for Cuir de Russie. Attending Esxence 2023 finally gave me the opportunity to meet brand owners, Michel Guszatz and Clara Feder and in-house nose, Maxence Moutte, in person. The brand’s colorful booth was decorated with beautiful origami sculptures created by artist Cristian Marianciuc, and this is when I first tried Osmanthe Liu Yuan.
Inspired by the Liu Yuan Garden in Suzhou, China, the fragrance explores the fruity, earthy, and leathery facets of the osmanthus flower. Michel and Clara kindly invited me to the fragrance launch party during which I was able to learn more about fragrance. The Chinese-inspired reception garden at the Enterprise Hotel in Milan perfectly matched Osmanthe Liu Yuan’s verdant, solar, and uplifting aura. I will share detailed thoughts about the fragrance as I wear it more.
Brief Notes
Other fragrant highlights were Puredistance Gold, a sunny and silky brew that truly conveys the sensation of liquid gold; Etat Libre d’Orange Sous La Pont Mirabeau, reminiscent of a breezy day at a beach town; and Meo Fusciuni Sogni, a dreamy and soulful creation with a deliciously sapid rice accord.
L’Osmothéque
Organized by L’Osmotheque, “Omaggio all’Italia, Terra di Profumi” (Tribute to Italy, Land of Perfumes), was an invaluable olfactive journey that took us back in time and down memory lane. It started with some of the most ancient perfumes, such as Regale Unguentum, the oldest in the Conservatory collection, and a scent that evokes the perfumed gloves in the painting, “Portrait of Helena Schermar” (1630) by Andreas Schuch.
Other featured classics included Borotalco (I was delighted to feel 4 years old again), Schiaparelli Shocking, Pino Silvestre, Ungaro Diva (more memories flowed), Christian Dior Dolce Vita (I wore this in my high school years), Iris Magnifica, and Laboratorio Olfattivo Bergamotto.
I also experienced the original formulas of several classic fragrances also thanks to L’Osmothéque, which preserves these timeless gems in small amber bottles and carries them in a suitcase for many of us to enjoy on special occasions. A few triggered instant memories (Guy Laroche Fidgi, Clinique Aromatics Elixir), while the originals of others were new to me (Fracas Bandit, Houbigant Fougère Royale). I enjoyed a lovely conversation with Isabelle Chazot, researcher in perfume history and president of L’Osmothéque scientific committee, and discovered we have a shared love for chypres and green florals.
What I wish I had tried and final thoughts
I wish I had tried Jacques Fath L’Iris Eau de Parfum and the creations by In Astra and Le Galion. I was planning on stopping by the booths but I either got distracted or time just slipped away. I also missed a few new brands, including Nissaba and Bienaimé, but they are now on my “must sample” list.
Esxence is about perfume and the vibrant atmosphere, but also about getting to know people. I met founders, perfumers, and creative directors and spent time with others who share this passion. Connecting with other writers and content creators was fulfilling and exhilarating. The entire experience was priceless, and I am already planning my next visit to sniff more and meet those I missed at this past event.
I am grateful to Le Jardin Retrouvé for gifting me a 50 ml bottle of Osmanthe Liu Yuan at the launch party and to the brands that gave me samples and took the time to share their passion, stories, and inspirations.
Pictures were taken by me and Claudio Losa. Natalia Outeda kindly provided the Frassaï photos.
Wonderful & very thorough intriguing second feature Damiana.
Thank you for taking us with you.
I truly got goosebumps culminating after reading, so many beautiful notes and when you were able to sample the original perfumes, such as Bandit.
It was wonderful to hear different houses, being generous with their time and even perfume.
What I have learned from your two features is that Esxense is not just a place where people go to eye 3 feet back from a booth from a luxury house predominantly but where people can truly get a closer inside look
and even a friendly conversation learning more with many many, creative new and older houses contact creators, Perfumers and even making new friends.
Perhaps the one thing one would need is a little bit more sleep before hand, extra scent strips and a good pair of shoes 🙂 💕💕
I was pleased to see how welcoming most people behind the brands were, so that was a happy surprise! Smelling so many fragrances can be overwhelming so pacing yourself is essential! And smelling is more fun with friends. I should probably be more organized with scent strips in the future, but I did wear sneakers and dress in layers, so I had the comfort part down. 🙂 Thanks for reading, Kait. You would have loved those original classics!