Once again, Milan hosted Esxence – The Art Perfumery Event, the world-renowned event dedicated to artistic perfumery. Held from June 3 to 6 at the Milan Convention Centre, the 16th edition was all about experiencing the world through olfaction, but also art and emotion. The fair welcomed more than 400 fragrance brands, 20,000 attendees, and 26 presentations given by 60 speakers from all over the world. In addition, there were installations by various artists, exhibitions by L’Osmotheque and Accademia del Profumo, and the Xuelei Fragrance Museum, the world’s largest perfume museum.
At the Fair
Just like past editions, the first day was the most enjoyable for Claudia (my lifelong friend who is also a fragrance enthusiast) and me. People trickled in at a seemingly relaxed pace and in their own time. My guess is that many of those who were planning to attend hadn’t even made it to Milan yet, allowing us early birds to freely explore the booths, easily connect with the brands, and happily sniff the fragrances. Another aspect I appreciated was the beautifully curated bookshop that drew us in with piles of nicely arranged perfume (and not only!) books waiting to be leafed through.
The use of unusual, retro, and classic florals was evident since the first day. Back in March, I shared a post about Fleurs et Flammes, a fragrance by Antonio Alessandria with a pronounced carnation note weaved into a composition of delicate florals. I was thinking that it would be nice if more brands revisited this uncommonly used flower and just a few months later, I heard that Laboratorio Olfattivo was launching In-Carnation. This fragrance is part of the Fioriture collection by Jean-Claude Ellena, along with Jasminade (highlighting Jasmine Grandiflorum) and Rose me Twice (featuring Tea Rose). In-Carnation opens with a slightly bitter green note, soon revealing a spicy and elegant carnation that subtly persists on the skin. Neith by Bertrand Douchafour for Neela Vermeire also includes a carnation note incorporated into a more intense blend of rose, resins, and black pepper.
Talea by Tianle Feng for Jijide features chrysanthemum, a flower laden with bias and prejudice because of its association with death and mourning in the Italian culture. Talea breaks away from those conventions by symbolizing rebirth and authenticity through the unconventional qualities of this flower. The herbal bitterness of chrysanthemum is spiked with Sichuan pepper to enhance its green character and supported by resins and vetiver to add depth.
Candy from Strangers by Francesca Bianchi is a personal and subversive interpretation of violet and more specifically, violet pastilles. These are the kind of candies handed out by a mysterious stranger: they’re sweet, syrupy, and nostalgic but conceal a darker and more disquieting side. The use of less conventional floral notes extended to the note of marigold, which is included in The Mandala by Param Sara, a brand from India I sadly missed.
Marine fragrances aren’t always easy on the nose, but a couple of brands had offerings that were singular but also wearable. Balaton by Chris Kumi of Hungarikum combines citrus and seaweed with unique accords of sunscreen and cola, evoking a carefree day at the beach. L’Eau Tres Mer by Rubini is an earthier interpretation, conjuring the collection of scents emanating from Jacques Cousteau’s boat: the wood from the hull, crystallized sea salt on the skin, fabric and rubber from the diving gear, and paper from the journal he kept on board.
There is truly little doubt that gourmands are loved by many people and are thus here to stay, but not everything needs to be cloying or smell exactly like food. Many of the fragrances with gourmand components were a little more atypical, subtle, or even playful. From rice (Very Bad Rice by Versatile) to almond latte (Ambre Latte from Essential Parfums) to condensed milk (Écoute-Moi by Anthologie), all the way to several interpretations of tea (Teapot Sonder and Carte Blanche by Ode Ona, Milky Dragon by Isabelle Larignon, and Leaf Crush by INSENF), the gourmand fragrances we sampled showcased accents of foodie notes on complex structures that also included prominent spices, resins, and woods. The most original gourmand of the entire fair was probably Salmiakki by Olfiction, inspired by a salty licorice candy from Finland. My personal favorite in the category was La Mora by Recensione Negativa, a playful blackberry perfume oil that is perfectly in line with Cristian Cavagna’s ironic brand, celebrating the imperfect practice of reviewing fragrances (recensione negativa means “negative review”). As a brunette, the double entendre included in the fragrance name (mora means both “blackberry” and “brunette”) added an extra layer of whimsy to the creation. The lovely ladies at the stand suggested layering la Mora with Verde Materico, also by the brand, but I’m guessing this pairing may work with many other green fragrances too!
We sampled several lovely musk fragrances, some of which were new and others just new to us. My absolute favorite was Musc Albedo by Tobba, a musk as soft and tender as a hug but with sparkle and presence. I finally also tried Musc Tonkin by Parfum d’Empire, Musk K by Ella K, and the more recently launched The Musc by Essential Parfums (extrait version).
Several brands presented intriguing new releases that evoked natural agents, settings, and celestial bodies. Light of Bangkok by Parfums Dusita, created for The Mandarin Oriental in Bangkok, has a distinct note of lemongrass that melds with bergamot, herbs, and radiant florals convey the idea of light in Thailand. Sine Gloria by Nobile 1945 has a stark urban feel, featuring notes of hashish, asphalt, and leather. Abaton’s Luminous Darkness, Moonlight Shadow, and Fruit & Moon, are odes to the moon. They are contained in bottles with caps built with a porous resin that can be sprayed to retain and enjoy the fragrance.
I was excited to explore brands that had been on my sniff list for a long time. One of them was Olfiction, the UK studio owned by Pia Long and Nick Gilbert. Inspired by literature and personal memories, the fragrances come in 15 ml bottles, a perfect format for collectors! Iconic is the creation that resonated with me the most with cosmetic impressions of cold cream, powder, and lipstick calling up Pia’s nostalgia for the 1980s. There were also copies of the book Demo Accords: Make Perfume Not War, a collection of personal essays by Pia and scent descriptions by Nick published in 2025. Nick introduced us to Vallense, the UK-based brand founded by William Borrell, who wasn’t at the event. The collection includes three fragrances, Sun, Source, and Spirit, all created by Pia, with Sun being my favorite of the three.
Another brand I’d had my eyes on for over a year was Isabelle Larignon. Other than discovering her entire collection, Isabelle also presented Dafneïs, a complex and ever-transforming iris fragrance inspired by the statue of Apollo and Daphne by Gian Lorenzo Bernini in view at Galleria Borghese in Rome.
The fair included brands from many countries, presenting exciting ingredients and flavors from various parts of the world, reflecting a geographic diversity that extended beyond the industry’s more traditional regions. A few of my favorite discoveries were Sasva from India; Voice from the Sky from China (founded by Tianle Feng, the perfumer also behind Jijide’s Talea), SARANGHAEYO, Unvanish, and INSENF from South Korea; Tobba from Hong Kong; Shekor Perfumes from Bangladesh; Hungarikum from Hungary; and FUMparFUM from Lithuania (Clown was one of my favorites by the brand).
I was pleased to try the fragrances by Azman Perfumes from Dubai, a house I have followed since its launch a few years ago. For one reason or another, I’d never had a chance to try the collection, but a serendipitous moment at the event led me to run into the founder, Husen Baba. We ended up having a few conversations at his booth and over two lunches. I loved discovering the Azman fragrances, including the latest releases, Crown of Fire and Nocturnal Immortal, and I was especially drawn to Two Minutes After The Kiss by perfumer Cristiano Canali.
One of my favorite parts of Esxence, L’Osmothèque, always hosts the most fascinating exhibitions. This year’s highlights included talking to President Thomas Fontaine and sampling staples of perfume history. We smelled Kyphi, an adaptation of the scent retrieved in the ruins of the Temple of Edfu, along with other gems such as the original Regale Unguentum, Ambre Antique by Coty, and Quelques Fleurs by Houbigant.
I was pleased to stop at the Institute for Art and Olfaction (IAO)’s booth and meet founder Saskia Wilson-Brown and other members of the organization’s team. We were able to smell and vote for the finalists in the indie and artisan categories of the 12th IAO Awards. I was already familiar with some of the fragrances, but I was happy to try others for the first time.
In terms of presentations, we attended a panel, Disaster-Proofing Your Perfume Brand, moderated by writer Sarah Colton, and a talk, Beauty and the Renaissance, given by writer and podcaster Roberta Deiana.
My Favorite Booth and the Things I Missed
Houses such as Fugazzi and The House of Oud usually take the win for most visually striking booths. However, my personal award goes to the grace and romantic beauty of the revived historic house of L.T. Piver. The colorful collection was beautifully curated, showcasing sophisticated fragrances, candles, and body milks. I especially loved Lait d’Iris (iris body milk), with its soft scent and fluid consistency.
It’s practically impossible to sniff everything at Esxence, but I feel like I missed out on a few things. I was planning to visit Param Sara and Jorum Studio, but I either got distracted or time just slipped away. I wish I had tried Patchouli Spirit, the latest fragrance by Nicolaï Parfumeur Createur, and the two vanilla fragrances by House of Sarah Baker, but the two houses exhibited at Scent Fest in San Francisco, so stay tuned for my thoughts on both.
Outside the Fair
At the end of the second day, Claudia and I ventured to the NH Hotel to attend the Niche Lifestyle Event, which included a presentation of fragrance brands represented by Omnia Luxury Trade. We sniffed fragrances and listened to brand presentations, while enjoying an aperitivo. Brand highlights included Roos & Roos (my favorite was Malamata, a fragrance by Dominque Ropion inspired by nettle), Maison de L’Asie (including the newest release, Tenger’s Son), Khayali (the mouthwatering Magic Mango was another favorite); Fabrizio Tagliacarne (the addictive Zoe smells like a motorcycle in a garage); Parfums de la Bastide (Ardent impressed me with its warm and fervent spices). Sabrina Dughetti, her daughter Sveva, and other lovely people of PR and More were gracious and generous hosts.
The Olfactory Signals salon was held at 10 Corso Como, a remarkable complex that hosts contemporary immersive art installations and includes a concept store, restaurant, and rooftop showcasing a modern and minimalist style. As soon as we entered the elegant space, I knew we’d be experiencing something special and far less crowded than the main fair. We sampled A Sigh of Dawn and Fraise de Nuit, the newest releases by the Argentina-based house Frassaï; both fragrances include several upcycled materials, including vanilla extracted from rice.
We also discovered Jouissance Parfums, a fragrance house inspired by erotic expressions of women artists and writers. Founder Cherry Cheng introduced three vintage-inspired fragrances in the Jouissance permanent collection, an exciting collaboration with a lesbian bar in London. She very kindly gifted us with scratch ‘n sniff stickers, which include a sticker that smells like a toxic ex-boyfriend! Thanks to Claudia, I was also introduced to Egoscentrique and its passionate founders. Their collection and contemporary bottle design look like contemporary art sculptures, and I have Whoremones on my wish list! We loved several fragrances by Abel and enjoyed meeting founder Frances Shoemack and her family. I really connected with Pink Iris and their newest fragrance, Miami Split, a unique blend of green banana, white oud, and labdanum.
A Few Notes About People
I’m grateful to Claudia, for hosting me at her house and for tirelessly exploring the fair and off-Esxence events with me. We tried the latest releases from new (or new to us!) brands, reconnected with perfumers and other creative people, met people from online communities, and attended panels. We shared meals, impressions, giggles, and had fun at the Fugazzi vending machine!
The playful aspect of the fair comes through the first picture! We took an anti-hero test at the Nobile1942 booth and confirmed our messy (mine!) and impulsive (hers!) natures.
We went back to her house and collapsed on the couch after hours of sniffing every day. These moments served as a good reminder not to take ourselves too seriously and that scent and fragrance can nurture our need for culture and discovery but also be a comforting balm during dark times.
We took photos with other fragrance enthusiasts we were lucky to meet in person and said hi to other lovely people.
There was one more adventure! Read all about a unique scent-chocolate tasting experience in my next article.
Photos were taken from me, except for the last one, kindly provided by Teo Grig.
Thanking Jen Siems of The Scent Strip for the support!
