As spring nears, I am looking back to the past few months and sharing my thoughts about some of the rose fragrances I wore. Most of these were my picks for Valentine’s week, but I also wore them during the winter holidays and on other chilly days. However, most of them are lovely for all seasons.
Rose is surely one of my favorite notes because of its elegance and versatility. I appreciate it in lavish, fresh, daring, gourmand, and unusual compositions. Also, regardless of how it is blended, I love how its presence rarely goes unnoticed. Although I enjoy many classic rose perfumes – Guerlain Nahema and Yves Saint Laurent Paris being two of many worth mentioning – I decided to highlight roses created by indie lines I find imaginative and inspiring.
These are some of my favorite rose-centered fragrances, but my list is far from complete.
Providence Perfumes Rose Bohème
Created with different rose essences, tea, agarwood, saffron, and a wonderful aged, almost “chocolaty” patchouli, this offbeat and voluptuous rose is burgundy in color and silky in texture. It evokes images of softly lit boudoirs embellished with black velvet drapes, vases of fleshy red roses, and bowls of dark chocolate truffles. With its precious and all-natural raw materials, including a rare white rose absolute, this award-winning fragrance delivers a luxurious and long-lasting experience and leaves a beautiful trail.
Founder and perfumer: Charna Ethier
Learn more about the line here.
Parfums de Nicolaï Rose Royale
This fragrance is a timeless beauty created as a tribute to the roses of the Palais-Royal Garden in Paris surrounded by the city’s sumptuous architecture. Speckled with passion fruit and ambrette seeds and encircled by immortelle’s honeyed facet, this rose is initially refreshing, green, and sweet but becomes muskier, woodier, and almost paper-like over time. It makes me think of a Pre-Raphaelite painting.
Founder and perfumer: Patricia de Nicolaï
Learn more about the line here.
Wit & West Rosa de Bolero and La Valse
Inspired by classic dances, Rosa de Bolero and La Valse are spicy rose siblings with opposite characters. Rosa de Bolero has a brash, dark, and edgy presence bringing together saffron, pink pepper, woods, and a rose spiked with osmanthus. In contrast, La Valse is velvety, round, and a little powdery with a dash of cool spice and a sweet base of vanilla and benzoin. Both fragrances were crafted with rare and botanical raw materials, including the gorgeous Rosa bourboniana absolute (in La Valse), which is characterized by a full-bodied balsamic scent profile.
Founder and perfumer: Whitney Swales
Read my thoughts about other Wit & West fragrances in my previously published article and learn more about the line here.
Anjali Perfumes Jaya
Jaya (meaning “victory” in Sanskrit) is an ode to Indian love tales and is inspired by all those lovers who connect and hold on despite the many obstacles. Cascades of fleshy rose petals and slices of juicy peach are adorned with violets and orris. Interspersed among the fruity and floral layers are bright splashes of bergamot and sprinkles of cloves. In every creation by Anjali, you will find a unique spice accord that lends character to the fragrances and pays homage to her native country, India. In Jaya, Anjali uses Bulgarian rose absolute and her own orris tincture.
Founder and perfumer: Anjali Vandemark
Read my thoughts about Anjali’s other creations, Monsoon Madness, Tiger Bright, Himalayan Dawn, and Kadamba. Learn more about the line here.
Papillon Tobacco Rose
This is a regal beauty that embodies a red, velvety rose in its entirety – fleshy petals, stems, and thorns, along with hints of the mineral soil that nurtured it. Beeswax, oak moss, and ambergris convey depth and earthiness. There is no tobacco note listed here, but the hay note imparts a dry and vaguely smoky sweetness that comes through later in the scent’s development. I love the use of both rose de Mai (citrusy and honeyed) and Bulgarian rose (deep and a little sharp) here.
Founder and perfumer: Liz Moores
Read my thoughts about Tobacco Rose in my previous review and learn more about the line here.
Gallagher Fragrances Rosé all Dae and Rosé Noir
These two rose-centered fragrances are among my most recent and unique fragrant discoveries. I was surprised by their distinctive compositions that blend gourmand notes with more unusual ones like stainless steel and leather. Inspired by Cinsault rosé wine, Rosé all Dae opens with distinct metallic and rose notes which meld with plum, apple crisp, and brown sugar to convey a delicious and intoxicating rose jam vibe. Over time, beautiful, pollen-rich facets of honey and the cozy warmth of tonka and vanilla are revealed. Rosé Noir has the same backbone with the addition of oud – palatable and not overpowering – and a hefty dose of leather – the new, crisp kind you would smell in a new fancy car. The Turkish rose absolute ties everything together in both fragrances, but award-winning Rosé all Dae is my favorite.
Founder and perfumer: Daniel Gallagher
Learn more about the line here.
Darren Alan Cupid’s Bow
Cupid’s Bow more is the quintessential romantic fragrance, bringing together lush roses and chocolate (I smell fine, buttery white chocolate) with citrus, red berries, and hints of champagne bubbles. Vanilla, musk, patchouli, and woods provide an intense base with delicious chocolate running through the entire fragrance’s life.
Founder and perfumer: Darren Alan
Read my article about Darren’ Alan’s creation in my article and more about the line here.
All fragrance bottles and samples were purchased by me, except for Rosa de Bolero, which was kindly gifted to me by Whitney Swales. Rose Boèhme belongs to my friend, but I steal it every time I can!
All photos were taken by me.
Let me know which indie roses, or any other rose fragrances, you love.
What a wonderful selection of roses, dear Damiana! All have something different and distinctive to offer. Lovely pics too.
Hi Rich, thank you for reading! These fragrances surely offer a variety of interpretations of the rose theme.
I grew up in a small beach community south of Los Angeles. Situated on the high point of the town, the houses on my street looked out on Palos Verdes to the south, and many of the backyards were built down a hill. One neighbor used this sloping hillside to create an enchanting rose garden that was formed by pathways and side annexes resembling a chapel all displaying roses from pure white to pinks and deepest reds. One wing would be devoted to coral and peach colored varieties another to varying yellows. As you moved from one display to another your feet followed pathways lined with baby’s breath. This was in the late 1950s and early 1960s, long before they started breeding the scent out of roses. Held back a year due to the timing of my birthday, I had the run of our entire neighborhood and this garden was my favorite place. Time and school would lead me away but I have never forgotten the beauty and intoxicating effect of those roses mixed with the scent of the sea. It always surprises me how fresh and innocent the scent of roses can be, yet still warm and sensual. It’s indelible, and your article brought it all back once again. Thank you for the recollection.
I am so happy to hear you were brought back to such a fond memory! The scent of roses mixed to that of the sea breeze is captivating and hard to convey in a bottle. Essenzialmente Laura has a lovely marine rose fragrance called Le Rose di Afrodite.
Fantastic selection, descriptions, and shots, Damiana. I love the Nicolai, and I still have yet to try anything by Papillon, but they’re at the top of my list.
Daniel, it’s nice to hear from you! I’d be really curious to know what you think of the Papillon offerings. I still need to try Hera, her latest creation.