A lover of food, flowers, and fragrances based in Portland, Oregon, Emily Schaber is the owner and perfumer of the indie line Shelter in Perfume, launched in the summer of 2020 during the COVID-19 shelter in place orders. Right at that time, every person was experiencing loss, so scent felt like a true shelter, a way to find comfort and relief during difficult times.
Emily’s intention was to bring cheer and sunshine by making perfumes that would allow her and others to be transported to beautiful places or back in time. In line with this intention is her olfactory signature, which I find to be refreshingly uplifting, colorful, and highly wearable. The fragrances include vibrant, sweet, and playful touches that might just bring us back to childhood.
I purchased the discovery set earlier this year and, in addition to enjoying the fragrances, I was delighted by the packaging. The small box that contains the five samples isn’t only adorable, colorful, and perfectly fitting for the line’s theme, but also fully recyclable.
Let’s take a look at her fragrances.
L
Originally created by Emily for her dear friend Lejla, who was unable to visit her home country, this fragrance was designed to heal and comfort sick hearts and to fill emptiness with sweetness and warmth.
Emily mentioned it represents “carefree optimism, rebirth, and renewal through yards and yards of soft yellow chiffon floating in the spring breeze.”
She also added that “L very well describes how life has changed since the COVID pandemic started: if we can’t be together in person, we’ll have to find another way; and maybe that’s through scent”.
My impressions: I could tell from the first sniffs that Emily infused special care and comfort into this soothing scent because L smells like childhood memories. Light touches of fruity cupcakes, baby powder, and vanilla-scented soft plastic suggest the scent of new dolls, the kind that would bring instant joy when we were young. As the fragrance develops, the gourmand character comes through with the aroma of freshly baked yellow cake and fluffy buttercream frosting. There’s an edible sweetness that is never cloying.
Notes: Plum, Raspberry, Pear, Lilies, Dry Woods, Soft Vanilla.
Emily donates $3 from every 15 mL bottle and $5 from every 30 mL bottle of L to the Portland Refugee Support Group.
In the Vineyard
Emily sought to create a polished blond wood and deep green floral fragrance that would evoke wonderful landscape views and friendly conversations. The fragrance was named through a contest on Instagram initiated by Emily in collaboration with blogger Mike Mcneese, whose vivid description brought the notes and story to life.
My impressions: In the Vineyard’s opening is crisp and verdant like freshly cut grass, thin blades dappled with dew drops. The heart is purple and dainty as violets come through. Linden blossoms and pears lend an airy and sweet aura. These orchard-fresh, floral, and green notes are grounded by woody notes as the base emerges. I can’t help but think of lively conversations with friends in the outdoors, a glass of red wine in hand.
Notes: Grapefruit, Pear, Garden Greenery, Herbaceous Violet, Iris, Freesia, Linden blossom, White Musk, Warm Blond Woods.
Sir
Emily describes this as a fragrance that commands confidence and a vivid, crisp, classic cologne-type of scent.
“Sir” does not necessarily refer to a man, but to anyone of any gender who is a natural leader. This type of person possesses a charisma and energy you can’t quite explain, but they will make you feel cared for in a way that is never domineering.
Sir is inspired by a wide range of personalities such as the actor Richard Burton, the character Apollo Creed from the movie Rocky, soccer player Megan Rapinoe, Missouri US Representative Cori Bush, and a drag king Emily saw in Georgia who performed Dirty Diana as Michael Jackson.
My impressions: I agree that Sir is a gender-encompassing fragrance that can be worn for any occasion. It’s cool and clean and I recognize the sunny signature that Emily can so effortlessly instill in any of her creations. On my skin, this is a fresh fragrance with a warm heart and not as much a classic cologne. The overall vibe I get is reassuring and laid back, but not as bold and commanding.
Notes: Lime, Vetiver, Leather, Cedar Atlas Heart, Amber.
The other two fragrances of the line have been discontinued but are still worthy of mention. Falcon is ozonic, airy, aldehydic, and aquatic, and evokes the Pacific Northwest coastal air and Oregon’s lush forests with ocean views. Spitfire is fiery, spicy, sassy, and mouthy, a blending of gourmand, spicy, fruity, and woody notes.
You can find Emily’s fragrances and the important causes she supports in her Etsy shop. Ten percent of her profits goes to a different organization every quarter.
I personally purchased the featured Shelter in Perfume discovery set.
Interview
Emily graciously accepted my invitation to talk about her passions and inspirations along with the story of how she started her own fragrance journey.
Interview
Emily graciously accepted my request to talk about her passions and inspirations along with the story of how she started her own fragrance journey
What is your background and how did you become interested in making perfume?
I’ve been interested in beauty most of my life. In my twenties I worked for Estee Lauder, MAC, Yves Saint Laurent, and Sephora, so fragrance was part of my everyday wardrobe.
I have a learning disability with deficits in the visual spatial realm and I can’t even draw a straight line; however, I still wanted to feel creative. So, I decided to make perfumes and gave them as Christmas gifts to my sisters and girlfriends. About 8 months later, while being furloughed, I opened my Etsy shop.
What are your oldest and fondest scent memories?
I received a set of floral perfumes for Christmas when I was about 10 years old. I was hooked and felt so grown up! A couple of years later, my Christmas bottle of Colors de Benetton completely transported me to this enviably fashionable world, miles away from my small town.
What inspires you to make perfume and who are your role models?
The moving stories of people I personally know inspire me the most. So far, my best inspirations have come from either strong emotional attachments or vivid visuals.
Kait of Vireo Perfumes is my role model. I don’t ask her to be my teacher and I try not to barrage her with questions. However, she truly mentors me by guiding me to dive deeper into my vision and to paint the full setting: characters’ lives, colors, textures, and, finally, the olfactory notes. Kait immediately pinned down my “signature” (very bright and vivid with “bonkers” longevity) when I didn’t even know I had one.
What are your other passions besides fragrances?
When I think about perfume I also think about food and flowers – baking and gardening are my two other passions. I love baking bread, cakes, pies, and cookies, and I love making truffles. Last year I bought a house with the most colorful backyard full of roses, lilies, blueberries, cherries, apple and pear trees, butterflies, bees, and hummingbirds. Maintaining it is a lot of work, but I’m obsessed with it.
I also enjoy creating gory makeup, especially during the month of October. Maggots coming out of my skin, slit throats, and black eyes are my specialty. I would also do anything to make a kid laugh. I’m a very good auntie to my smart and charming nieces and nephews!
What is your favorite among your creations and why?
My favorite of my creations is L, which comes from a place of pure love and hopeful wishes for my dear friend Lejla.
I personally felt good about it, but people’s reactions were also surprising and emotional. L brought people to tears by bringing up feelings of love and nostalgia and offering a sense of warmth and comfort. This is how I hoped Lejla would feel, but I wasn’t expecting anyone else to experience it that way too.
How do you see the future of women in perfumery?
I am still new to this art, but I hope the future of women in perfumery will involve lifting each other up regardless of race or ethnicity. Mutual support via social media and other platforms will be key and I am trying to be a part of that.
Pictures are my own or kindly provided by Emily Schaber, as indicated.
